February 8, 2013: Pidgin Restaurant!

Akemi and I don’t get out as much as we used to but, the other night, we hung up our pots and pans (and packed away the sous vide machine) in favor of a night out.  We headed to Gastown to check out Pidgin, one of the newest additions (less than a week old!) to the local dining scene.  The man behind the menu, Chef Makoto Ono, was the winner of the first Canadian Culinary Championship at Gold Medal Plates back in 2007.  Since then, he has opened Makoto restaurant in Beijing, as well as Liberty Exchange and Liberty Private Works (which made the World’s Best 50 Restaurants) in Hong Kong.  And finally, Chef Ono has set up shop in Vancouver.

I’ve heard the menu described as mix of French, Japanese, and Korean influences with an emphasis on fresh, local ingredients.  Akemi and I were intrigued…

The menu is a one-sheet covering everything from appetizers to larger plates, the individual prices a guide to their relative portion sizes.  We started small and worked our way up.

The rice crackers and sweet soy anchovies weren’t my thing (as I enjoy neither rice cracker or anchovies) but Akemi is a big fan of both and loved this starter.

Akemi concentrates on eating.

More my speed where the fried shisito (Japanese) peppers with parmesan and pine nuts.  I’m a big fan of their sweet and slightly bitter taste, also the fact that roughly one in every three is mouth-blastingly hot.

Akemi presents…

One of the highlights of the night, however, was the sea urchin with cauliflower mousse, ponzu jalapeno salsa, and dashi.  Forget what you think you know about sea urchin.  Most of the stuff served at many sushi restaurants is packaged and possessed of an unpleasant funkiness.  But get them fresh – as served here – and they’re nothing but creamy sweetness melting in your mouth.  I ended up having two servings.

Akemi also did a wedge salad with tofu dressing, nori, and bonito flakes.  Again, not my thing but very much hers.

The only dish that didn’t impress was the Korean rice cakes with pork belly with tomato sauce and furikake.  It wasn’t bad, but I thought the belly and rice cakes an odd textural combination.

On the other hand, there was the other highlight of the night: beef tongue and cheek with broccoli pistou and mustard.  A marvelous dish but, I thought, a little pricey given the portion size.

We had three options for dessert and, rather than risk second-guessing myself, I decided to go with all three.

The black sesame cream with red bean and snow fungus was interesting and I loved the little crunch imparted by the fungus, but it felt like a very good Chinese dessert – which is my way of saying it was better than what I’d expected but not something I’d order again.

The chocolate fritters with the matcha dipping sauce were a bittersweet treat.  My only quibble was that the chocolate inside the fritters hadn’t totally melted and were solid and cool at their center.

The meringue with yuzu curd, vanilla, and celery (Yes, celery!) was excellent – and Akemi’s favorite.  This was the dish she was talking about on the way home.

The verdict?  Akemi put it best: fresh, clean flavors.

We’ll definitely be back and, on our return visit, I’m definitely getting the one menu item I regretted missing: the foie gras rice bowl with chesnuts, daikon, and unagi glaze!

Oiiishiiii!

Read Full Post »

January 24, 2013: Quinto Quarto

Last night, Campagnolo Roma hosted another one of its famed Quinto Quarto dinners, an offal-themed culinary extravaganza inspired by the Roman “fifth quarter” feasts of yore.  I was flying sort of solo as Akemi had bowed out on account of the far-too-late-for-her 8:30 p.m. seating. That and the emphasis on liver.

Like I said, I was flying “sort of solo” because, even though I didn’t have a date, I had plenty of company in the form of some adventurous friends.  There was Robert of course, a mainstay at these events (in fact, we met at one of Roma’s Whole Hog dinners) who was, in turn, joined by his buddy, Dave.  Longtime dining companions Jodi and Steve also put in a surprise appearance.  And, since the meal was family style (meaning you’re sharing a table with strangers), we ended up making some new friends as well: Barbara (whose husband used to work in the local t.v. industry and was also flying solo), Rosita (an accountant with a taste for adventure) and Su (who runs a catering company).

Now, the last Quinto Quarto dinner I attended was full of surprises (most of them good) so I wasn’t expecting this one to beat it.  But, damn, if the gang at Roma didn’t surprise me yet again.  The meal broke down as follows:

Beef tendon, honeycomb ripe, tongue.

That’s the way it was listed in the menu.  Rather uninspired, I thought. And I was thoroughly prepared to be underwhelmed given how much I loved the appetizers (spleen sliders!) from the last Quinto Quarto dinner – and how much I don’t like tripe.  But this dish turned out to be one of the highlights of the night, an outstanding combination of textures and flavors.  The addition of parsley and mint brought it to a whole other level.

Cavatelli all’anatra with duck gizzard sugo and crispy sage and chicken skin.

Speaking of outstanding – I could have eaten a double portion of this and the appetizer and gone home singing the praises of “My best meal in recent memory!”.  The pasta was perfectly al dente (can’t tell you how important that is).

Sauteed calves liver, sauteed onions, aceto tradizionale.

Okay, let me start off by saying that this was, without a doubt, the best calves liver I’ve ever eaten – sweet, tender, but intense.  No second helpings for me.  Growing up, this was one of my father’s favorite meals, and mom would prepare them the same why: fried with onions.  It took me back.

Roasted brussels sprouts with cured pork.

This is the only way to eat brussels sprouts = with bacon!

Pork kidneys, mustard greens, and extra virgin olive oil.

Hmmm.  This one didn’t do it for me.  The salad was interesting, the mustard greens possessed of a nice little kick, but those kidneys were akin to oversauced mushrooms.  Not my thing.

Sweet black pudding, pannetone, marsala zabaglione.

As much as I applaud the courage and creativity that goes into an offal-inspired dessert, I can’t really say I’ve ever had one that made me say: “Wow!  They’ve got to put this on the regular menu!”.  Not the black pudding and chocolate ice cream I once had at Refuel with Marty G. and Jewel.  Not the ricotta and pig brain cream in the cassata siciliana served at the last Quinto Quarto dinner.  And, to be truthful, not this sweet black pudding with pannetone and marsala zabaglione. Nevertheless, it WAS good.  The hazelnut black pudding and chocolate cake was reminiscent of fruit cake – but in a good way.

Overall, I quite enjoyed the meal and, based on those first two dishes (appetizer and pasta) have to give the edge to last night’s Quinto Quarto dinner over the previous one I attended.  Can’t wait for the next one!

Jodi and Steve surprised me by joining me – and genuinely enjoying the dinner.  Didn’t realize they were such culinary daredevils.

David and Robert enjoyed the meal as well – but weren’t quite as enamored of the liver.

Rosita and Su = new foodie friends.

Barbara.  Since everyone else but the two of us were paired off, that made her my date for the evening!

Special thanks to the gang at Roma – especially the two individuals who created the menu and cooked the food: Chef Nathan and Chef Ted…

Chef Nathan and Chef Ted

Thanks, guys!

Read Full Post »

December 20, 2012: Your Handy Wildebeest Guide!

Last night, Akemi and I met up with Simon and Sean for dinner at a restaurant I’ve been eager to check out for quite some time: Wildebeest.  According to the restaurant’s website, its focus is on “Meat-centric, off-cut farmhouse fare simply prepared with immaculate ingredients and thoughtful creativity”, reminiscent of L.A.’s Animal and Toronto’s Black Hoof, two other places I’ve been dying to try.

Because of the recent snowfall Vancouver’s inept drivers we gave ourselves plenty of time, leaving the house one full hour ahead of our 6:00 p.m. reservation and arriving fifteen minutes early.  Surprisingly, Simon also erred the side of caution and showed up at the same time. Sean, unfortunately, ended up stuck in traffic and didn’t get there until 6:30 – so we went ahead and made the executive dinner decisions.

To be honest, I wanted to try pretty much everything on the menu.  As Akemi put it, it would have been far simpler to just tell our waiter what we DIDN’T want from the listed items.  In the end, we decided to go with a few starters, a few mains, and a few sides.  This is how our meal broke down:

Pork schnitzel with Wildebeest mustard

The pork was perfectly prepared, crisp and succulent, and the Wildebeest mustard (honey dijon) made for a great dipping accompaniment.  Simon, however, wasn’t totally sold on the coating.

Bacon-wrapped country pate with pistachio, seasonal jam, and pickled vegetables.

Wonderfully rustic, studded with pistachio and hazelnuts.  Akemi, with a taste for the slightly sour, polished off the pickled veggies.

Popcorn chicken hearts, crispy shallot dust, caper relish.

One of the more intriguing plates of the night.  I liked it but didn’t love it.  Hearts are tricky at the best of times, predisposed to being a little tough, and deep-frying them renders them that much chewier.

Grilled beef tongue, wild mushroom consomme, toasted grains, mustard greens.

While Akemi prefers her tongue crispier and thinly sliced, Simon and I marveled over its mouth-meltingly tender texture here.  The broth was outstanding.

Roasted sweetbreads, caramelized buttermilk, wild mushrooms, porcini vinaigrette.

I’ll got ahead and call this my favorite dish of the night.  A nice contrast of tastes and textures – crisp, tender, sweet and savory. Probably the best preparation of the sweetbreads I’ve ever had.

Pork jowl, long pepper-scented oats, bourbon barrel-aged maple syrup.

I know you’d think I’d be a belly guy but, in truth, my favorite part of the pig is the jowl (with the temple coming in a close second).  You’ll be hard-pressed to find a more tender cut and Wildebeest’s take does it full justice.

Sunchokes and brussel sprouts.

An addition to the regular menu.  I liked the preparation but found the sunchokes underdone.

Slow-cooked natural Angus beef short rib, smoked salt, hay-infused jus.

Heavily marbled but deliciously smokey.

Poutine, roasted foie gras.

I’m used to the Au Pied de Cochon version which is a lot heavier on the foie, but this one was a consensus winner – surprisingly, less so for the foie than for the crunchy yet meaty golden fries.

Foie gras torchon, Earl Grey tea, orange blossom bread.

This one was a late addition.  As much as I enjoy a good pate or a pan-seared preparation, nothing beats a good torchon.  And Wildebeest does a damn good one.

We decided to run the table on dessert, ordering all four on the menu…

Pink Lady apple sorbet, vanilla grapefruit creme anglaise, granola, 63C egg yolk.

This was the dessert I was most looking forward to, less so for the fruit elements (of course) than for the inclusion of the 63 degree egg yolk. In the end, I didn’t love it – although Akemi did.

Cardamom & goat’s milk cheesecake, quince sorbet, crumble.

This one was the hands down winner.  The cheesecake is almost a foam – light, airy, very tasty.  I was not a fan of the quince sorbet, its fizzy tartness reminiscent for me of slightly turned apple juice, but Akemi loved it.

Single origin Malumi chocolate cake, tonka bean ice cream, candied beets.

I was dubious about the candied beets when I saw them on the menu and, quite honestly, in the end, they failed to convince me.  Still, they fell somewhere in between the tonka ice cream (great) and the cake itself (disappointingly dry).

Composed cheese – baked farmhouse brie, seasonal fruit jam, buttermilk ice cream.

Well, I’ll give them points for trying.  Brie with buttermilk ice cream? At first blush it sounds a little off-putting but, after giving it some thought, it sounds like it may work.  It didn’t for me.

The kitchen at work

A few minor quibbles with our savory courses but there were at least three or four standout dishes I would recommend to a friend or look forward to on my return visit.  The desserts, on the other hand, while interesting failed to impress.

The atmosphere is laid back; comfortably casual.  The service was terrific, friendly and informative.  And the price point was a surprise, roughly half what you’d expect to pay elsewhere for a similar meal in the city!

Overall, an excellent dinner.  I look forward to coming back to try that roasted bone marrow luge with almond butter and tomato jam.

Wildebeest

This was a farewell feast for Simon who heads of to greener – and no doubt tastier – international culinary pastures.

Bon Voyage and Bon Appetit!

Read Full Post »

October 27, 2012: Travel Day! The Top 11 Things I’ve Been Eating in Vancouver!

Planning a visit to Vancouver and looking forward to sampling some of the city’s finest – but not looking forward to playing hit and miss?  Well, relax and allow me to guide you through some of the city’s tastiest treats.

Here are the Top 11 Things I’ve Been Eating in Vancouver:

PEACEFUL BEEF ROLL AT  PEACEFUL RESTAURANT

Featured on Diners, Drive-Ins & Dives, its five-spice, hoisin-laced beef rolled in crispy onion flatbread.  The restaurant focuses on northern Chinese dishes, more robust and intensely flavored than their southern counterparts.  Lots to like on the menu but the peaceful beef roll leads the list.

CACHETA AND LENGUA TACOS AT La Taqueria

Vancouver’s best taco place (Sorry.  Nowhere else comes even close.) offers up a varied and delicious selection.  My favorites are the tender and tasty cacheta (braised beef cheeks) and lengua (braised beef tongue).  If you’re feeling less adventurous, go with pollo con mole or pescado (grilled fish), then wash it down with a horchata or Mexican coke.

SALTED CARAMEL CREAM PUFF AT Beta 5

This place specializes in chocolate, but they do so many other things well – like their irresistible salted caramel cream puff, a perfect marriage of sweet and salty, crisp and creamy.

ABURI SALMON OSHI SUSHI AT Downtown Vancouver Japanese Restaurant – Miku Restaurant

Local salmon pressed and dressed with Miku special sauce, topped with jalapeno then grilled topside using a blowtorch and charcoal. Whenever I go with first-timers, I always order two rolls (at least) because I know that one won’t be enough.

SOFT SERVE ICE CREAM AT FAT DRAGON BAR-B-Q

The greatest soft serve I’ve ever had available in a variety of inspired daily flavors.  My favorite (surprise surprise) = the delightfully refreshing cucumber!

CHOCOLATE PUDDING AT Fable Restaurant | From Farm to Table

Former Top Chef Canada contestant Curtis Luk makes some amazing desserts (including kick-ass macarons), but his chocolate pudding is my go-to after-dinner treat.  A brilliant balance of tastes and textures.

CHOCOLATE ZEPPOLE AT Giovane cafe + bakery + deli: a stunning cafe & retail emporium …

A chocoholic’s dream bomb: cream on the inside, ganache on the outside.  Bring back-up!

PORCHETTA AT Meat & Bread

Juicy slow-roasted pork, crunchy crackling, and salsa verde served on a ciabatta roll.  We’ve gone so many times of late that Akemi has declared a temporary moratorium on near future visits.  I’ve already got a plan to work around the embargo.

BANANA CHOCOLATES AT Beta 5

The impressively-thin shell possesses a great chocolaty snap, giving way to fantastic banana interior.  I’m a huge fan of this particular flavor combination and have tried many variations.  My all-time favorites are those offered at Le Chocolat de H in Tokyo (ル ショコラ ドゥ アッシュ_) and Beta 5′s version.

SPAGHETTI AT CAMPAGNOLO ROMA

Having grown up in an Italian household, I’m incredibly picky when it comes to pasta, especially spaghetti, so the fact that Campagnolo Roma’s version is on this list says a lot about the dish.  Perfectly cooked to a toothsome al dente and served with luscious tomato sauce and a touch of fresh basil.

CARROT CAKE AT cadeaux bakery

I’m a sucker for carrot cake and, after an in-depth (and thoroughly delicious) search, I’ve found my favorite.  But Cadeaux Bakery in Gastown offers more than just carrot cake – which is why, every time I go, we end up sitting down to a good half-dozen heavenly creations.

Read Full Post »

October 25, 2012: Double Birthday(ish) Dinner!

The other night, Akemi and I went out for burgers with a couple of our very favorite Vancouver friends: Steve, Jodi, and their daughter, Gemma.  Per Akemi’s request, we ended up going to Romer’s Burger Bar for their varied menu offerings and those silly iceberg lettuce buns the ladies seem to enjoy.

Steve and Jodi.  Future Vegas travel companions?

Gemma says: “I’m eating! And watching Madagascar 3.”

The Chorizodor.  A pork and chorizo sausage patty topped with cheddar, pepper jack, creamy boursin, avocado, and Diablo sauce.  Tasty – but very messy.

Steve and Jodi ended up surprising both Akemi and I with belated birthday gifts.  A travel kit for me (which saves me the trouble of having to go out and buy one for my Tokyo trip!  How’s that for timing?) and a pug-themed accessory for Akemi:

So cute!

As the dishes were being cleared away, our waitress asked who was the birthday boy because, apparently, they were preparing some sort of dessert in my honor.  I assumed that she had spotted the gift and informed the kitchen who had decided to whip up something for the occasion.  I would have honestly preferred to simply order my own dessert.  BUT it turned out the dessert wasn’t coming from the kitchen. Not exactly.  It was coming from the kitchen via a sneaky Steve and Jodi via Ganache Patisserie: an assortment of delectable pastries including:

My birthday mini-cake

And my favorite: the hazelnut cocoa meringue.

The desserts were totally unexpected but greatly appreciated.  And delicious.  If we do end up doing Vegas with Steve and Jodi in, I’ll have to find a way to surprise them as well.  I’m thinking garden snake in their luggage.

Then, last night, Akemi and I headed over to Fat Dragon for their famed Hog Times dinner.  We were joined by Emma and Robert (who we met at the last family-style dinner at Campagnolo Roma) and our buddy Simon…

Emma and Robert = expert eaters.

Simon = diner, chef, photographer.

I’m usually not a fan of family-style dining which requires you to share a table with complete strangers.  Sometimes, dishes introduced at one end of the table take forever to get to you – and, when they do, it can be slim pickings.  Conversely, if you’re starting with a dish, you may limit your initial serving to ensure everyone at the other end of the table receives a share and, as a result, end up leaving the table feeling hungry.  On the other hand, the family-style setting allows you to make new friends (like Emma and Robert) – which wasn’t the case on this night as the group seated beside us was immersed in their own private conversation throughout.

Still, it was a great meal.  The following photos were snapped by Simon and his far superior camera:

Barbecued Sloping Hill Farm Pig.  They trotted the pork out and posed for the requisite pics.  

Papaya and cabbage salad with lime, green chilies, and crispy shallots.  Akemi loved it.

Jalan Alor chicken wings.  Simon went to town on these!

Stri-fried noodles with smokey drippings.  Smokey drippings? Aka pork fat.  And, yes, they were delicious.

The cheek!  The tastiest, most tender part of the pig.  

Other menu items included bean sprout kimchi, stir-fried Japanese eggplant, BBQ pit beans, butter lettuce and bean sprout salad, Korean BBQ sauce, scallion sauce, and steamed jasmine rice.  The eggplant was a favorite of the table.

For dessert, I ordered a round of Fat Dragon’s famed soft serve ice cream.  That night’s flavor: pandan.

The happy couple

Akemi says: “Oishiiii!”.

In addition, Simon gifted me a box of belated birthday chocolate and macarons.  They were incredible, especially the pumpkin macarons!

Like my birthday dinner at Campagnolo, Chef Ted Anderson was the man behind the meal.  A big thanks to him and the rest of the gang at Fat Dragon/Campagnolo/Campagnolo Roma.

Well, after two big meals, Akemi has decided to eat soup for the foreseeable future.

Read Full Post »

October 17, 2012: Birthday festivities and feast!

So much for being on the program.

My Birthday Week festivities continue!  How are YOU celebrating?

Today, I received a little something from Sis (and by “I”, I mean “we” since the contents of the package were for both Akemi and me, and by “a little” I mean a lot).  Mexican chocolate, chocolate-covered licorice, multi-flavored chocolate bars (including peanut butter and banana, and BBQ potato chips), chocolate truffles…Do you sense a theme?  Akemi, meanwhile, went absolutely crazy over the three adorable aprons she received (which she intends to model on her blog tomorrow). Coincidentally, she was up last night, internet-perusing adorable aprons.  No kidding!

She was up late because she couldn’t sleep after the incredible meal we had at Campagnolo earlier that night…

I texted owner Tom Doughty last week and told him I wanted to swing by for a special birthday dinner.  Not only did he make the arrangements, but he even showed up on the night with a handsome new haircut!

Our first course was a lentil and chorizo soup.  It was intensely flavorful, the lentils pureed to a silky smoothness and studded with tiny bites of smokey chorizo.

Alas, forgot to snap a picture of the second course but you’ll have to trust me when I say it looked gorgeous.  And tasted wonderful.  Savoy cabbage, beet roots, courtons and two year cured ham.  Yes, cured for two year and melt-in-your-mouth wonderful.

Bruschetta of andouille sausage, fontina cheese, and walla walla onions.

Our third course, the bruschetta, was an incredibly rich mix of sweet, smokey, salty, and sharp.

Foie Gras with coronation grapes.

Speaking of “rich”, our decadent fourth course almost did me in.  One incredibly lucious pan-seared duck liver.

Veal-stuffed agnolotti with thyme butter and Parmigiano Reggiano.

I was a little worried that the Parmigiano Reggiano would overwhelm here but it married wonderfully, sliced paper thin, with the delicate flavor of the agnolotti.  And that thyme butter simply put it over the top.

Seabass en papillote.

The flavors of our sixth course were clean and altogether fantastic.  One of the best fish preparations I’ve had in recent memory.  Akemi bemoaned the fact that she didn’t have chopsticks on hand to thoroughly pick the very last bits of tasty meat from the bones.

Accompanying the seabass was a nice little kale and sundried sungold tomato salad.

And then, we were presented with our seventh course.  I was expected pork and was surprised by…

Horse filet with glazed onions and chanterelle mushrooms.

I was admittedly leery.  My first (and only) foray into horseflesh was…well, memorable for all the wrong reasons (February 7, 2012: Tokyo Day #11! The gang back home! Okonomiyaki! And my weirdest meal yet! Well, actually not so much a meal as a bite.).  Happily, this preparation fared much better.  Perfectly cooked, surprisingly tender and, to be perfectly honest, very tasty.

Dining with us on this night: Hillary and fellow birthday boy Rob.

Akemi so full she can’t eat another bite.  Unless it’s dessert of course.

Dessert #1: Mascarpone Cheesecake

Most wouldn’t consider it light but I certainly did, especially in comparison to our second dessert.  And I don’t mean that in a bad way.  It was, without a doubt, the best piece of cheesecake I’ve had in ages.

Dessert #2: Chocolate pudding with French toast and vanilla cherries.

As much as I enjoyed the cheesecake, chocolate pudding is more my speed.  And this particular pudding packed a helluva chocolate punch!

Chef Ted and the birthday boy.

A HUGE thanks to Tom, Chef Ted (who designed the menu), and the rest of the gang at Campagnolo for yet another fabulous culinary extravaganza!

And, just in case those nine courses weren’t enough, Rob and Hillary gifted me a little something from their recent trip to Vegas:

A Vosges dark chocolate assortment. 

Damn, that takes me back to the chocolate parties I used to host in the Stargate days.

 

 

Read Full Post »

September 27, 2012: Quinto Quarto dinner! Days of Stargate Atlantis Past! Kindred I!

“In the cuisine of modern Rome quinto quarto (literally the “fifth quarter”) is the offal of butchered animals. The name makes sense on more than one level: because offal amounts to about a fourth of the weight of the carcass; because the importance of offal in Roman cooking is at least as great as any of the outer quarters, fore and hind; and because in the past slaughterhouse workers were partly paid in kind with a share of the offal.

Until modern time the division of the cattle in Rome was made following this simple scheme: the first “quarto” was dedicated to be sold to the Nobles, the second one was for the clergy, the third one for the Bourgeoisie and eventually the fourth “quarto” was for the soldiers. The proletariat could afford only the entrails.”

- Quinto quarto – Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Well, whaddya know.  Just the other day, I was discussing adventurous dining and my fruitless attempts to acquire duck hearts for a dish I was looking to prepare (September 22, 2012: Heart of Duckness).  Five days later, I’m sitting down to one of my most unique meals of 2012. Last night, Campagnolo Roma hosted their annual Quinto Quarto dinner with Chefs Ted Anders and Nathan Lowey serving up a Roman style feast highlighting “the odd bits”.     The menu…

The dinner was served “family style”, so Akemi and I ended up sharing a table with three other diners, some friendly fellow foodies (two of who happened to be big Stargate fans).  The meal started with the antipasto:

Arancine al sugo (risotto balls stuffed with fifth quarter sugo) and  stioghiola alla griglia (charred intestines).

Akemi quite enjoyed the former (Of course.  She’s Japanese!).  The charred intestines I thought lacked the headlined charring and were possessed of an underlying gaminess that I, well, didn’t love.

Vasteddo piccolo (spleen sliders).

Similar in flavor to liver but, I found, far less intense.  Also, somewhat chewier, but served slider-style, these small bites were utterly delicious.  I ended up eating four in all.

Rounding out the antipasti was some very good sfincione con nduja (sicilian flatbread seasoned with soft liver sausage).  Akemi and I were never actually served this dish but our table mates had been given a plate and they were more than happy to sure (Ah, the perils of family-style dining). 

spaghetti con le cuore de salmone
nass river salmon hearts, garlic confit, saffron

Now THIS dish was the highlight of the night.  The pasta was a perfectly prepared al dente, the accompanying sugo sweet and smokey from the shaved salmon hearts.

A whole salmon heart we brought back home as a keepsake – and, later that night, dog snack.

polpette quinto quarto
pork meatballs with everything, lemon zest, mint

The “everything” included heart, liver, and kidney.  If you had served up these meatballs to someone like, say, my unadventurous buddy Carl, and not told them what they were eating, they would probably declare them the best meatballs they’d ever eaten.  And they were: incredibly moist and utterly delicious.

il caponata bianca
vinegared celery, eggplant, pine nuts

I’ve never been a big fan of anything marinated but thought this was a nice change of pace for the meal.  Akemi particularly enjoyed the pickled celery.

pomodoro misto e orecchio fritto
milan’s tomatoes, crispy pig’s ear, basil

Also a nice little detour.  The crispy pig’s ears offered a nice, crispy textural contrast.  That being said, I still prefer them sliced thicker and served with salsa verde like Refuel used to do back in the day (and I believe Fat Dragon still may do).

cassata siciliana
marzipan, ricotta & pig’s brain cream, marsala

Yes, the inclusion of pig brain gave me pause as well.  I’m not a huge fan of brain (I’m not a fan of its metallic aftertaste), but it was inoffensive here.  So inoffensive, in fact, that it felt a little unnecessary but for the simple fact that it maintained the dining theme and, hey, diners could tell their friend that they’d had a pig brain dessert – and liked it.  Which I did.

Dining opportunities like this one are a rarity and, while I’m sure that’s a-okay for many more conservative diners, I, for one, would like to see more of these daring dining events.

A huge thanks for a job well done to Ted, Nathan, and the gang at Campagnolo Roma.

This morning, Paul swung by and we worked through the day -stopping only for tacos – to finally finish that outline.  Well, more or less.  More in terms of structure and less in terms of detail, but I’m sure all the minutiae will work itself out in the next couple days when I get it all down on (virtual) paper.  It’s a pilot for a fantasy series and, while I have high hopes it will go to series, I’m being realistic as well.  In this business, everything is a longshot.  It and the potential Dark Matter series are purely speculative at this point and, even if they do come to fruition, production wouldn’t get underway until well into 2013.  This is why I’m not giving up my day job (a.k.a. focusing on winning the lottery).

Paul gives the outline a thumbs up.

Continuing our trip down Stargate Atlantis memory lane…

KINDRED I (418)

According to the trailer that the network ran for this episode: “You won’t believe the last five minutes”.  These words were uttered as viewers were shown the deceased but very much alive-looking Carson Beckett looking up as someone says: “Carson!”.  My question was: “Why won’t they believe the last five minutes.  You’ve already ruined it for them.”  It was reminiscent of the network trailer for SG-1′s The Curse that showed Osiris, eyes glowing, blasting members of the team – effectively ruining our end of episode reveal.  Which was, in turn, reminiscent of the TV Guide blurb for SG-1′s Solitudes: “Jack and Sam are stranded in the Antarctic”, an episode in which Jack and Sam believe they’ve been stranded off-world until they discover they’re actually been on Earth all along.  In the Antarctic!  Surprised?  No?

At the SGA season 3 wrap party, I informed a glum Paul McGillion that I had a great idea to bring Carson back.  It involved cloning, Michael, and a shocking and unexpected appearance by the beloved Scot.  Well, in the end, cloning and Michael anyway.

The placeholder title for this episode was “Rise of the Googlions”.  Why? Because that’s the title fellow Executive Producer/writer Carl Binder suggested and it stuck.  From a former blog entry: “Oh, dear. This is what happens when you hang on to a gag title a little too long. Sooner or later, it makes it onto the schedule, the Art Department starts using it in their design updates, and producer John N. Smith can be heard uttering the words: ‘We should check out that location. We might be up there for Googlions.’ For all of you who have been racking your brains trying to come up with the hidden meaning behind the ‘Rise of the Googlions’ title, allow me to reveal it for you. … ‘Rise of the Googlions’ was nothing more than an inane title Carl came up with off the top of his head. To all those who wasted any amount of time searching the Internet for clues about the googlions, blame Mr. Binder who unwittingly sent you all out on a wild goose chase.”

Read Full Post »

September 14, 2012: Feasting at Campagnola! Days of Stargate Atlantis Past! This Mortal Coil!

The other day, I received an email from my buddy, Rob, informing me that this was Passion for Pork Week in Vancouver.  What, exactly, that meant I had no idea, but I knew that if pork was the central theme, then the gang at Campagnolo Restaurant were the people to see.  I texted owner, Tom Doughty, to let him know we were coming.  He gave Chef Ted Anderson the heads up and – well, we ended up sitting down a spectacular meal.  Actually, I hesitate to call it a meal since “feast” would have been much more appropriate.  Rob and his wife, Hillary, ended up bringing home leftovers equal to the amount of food the four of us ate for dinner…

Chef Ted – the master of ceremonies.

To be honest, I didn’t think we’d ordered THAT much, but there were certain items we just had to have.  Add in a few specials, a couple of surprises from the kitchen and…

The homemade mortadella (one of the special’s that night).  My mother’s favorite cold cut.  This version contains pistachios for a nice textural contrast.  Mom would’ve loved it. 

Grilled beef tongue with watercress, warba potatoes, and pine nuts.  If you can get past the fact that you’re eating tongue, this is one of the most delicious of meats.  Back in University, I had a friend who worked as a waiter at a Jewish restaurant.  Once, when a customer ordered the tongue, my buddy quipped: “Would you like extra saliva with that?”.  That was his last night on the job.

The arancini (another special).  Not surprisingly, Akemi’s favorite: crispy rice balls, stuffed and breaded.

In addition, we had some marinated olives, a Stoney Paradise tomato salad (so sweet, they almost taste like candy), and a little something from the kitchen: some wonderful Buffalo Mozzarella.

Next up, the salumi platter.  We decided to go large so that we could try a wider variety of cured meats…

Alas memory fails me on the details of the various offerings but, suffice it to say, it was one of the high points of the night.  Next time, I could just come back and eat that.

From there, we moved on to pizzas: a simple but excellent Margherita, and -

Cipolle – walla walla onions, taleggio cheese, crushed potatoes and olives.  I’ve always been a huge fan of white pizza and this one did not disappoint.

We then moved on to an enormous portion of the tasty house lasagna which was followed by our main:

A pork trio on a bed of sweet corn polenta.  Not pictured: the pork belly tucked underneath.  Akemi was full and decided to pass on hers, took a bite and ended up finishing the whole thing.

Yes, we were stuffed.  But when have you known me to miss dessert? Keeping with the running theme, we ordered all three dessert selections:

Dark chocolate mousse topped with local strawberries.

Trifle alla Campagnolo – cornmeal cake, preserved fruit, and butterscotch.

Mascarpone cheesecake with lapin cherries and pistachio.

Wow.  What a feast.  Camp never disappoints.

If you’re in Vancouver, check them out:

Campagnolo Restaurant

1020 Main Street  Vancouver, BC V6A 2W1 2W1

(604) 484-6018

A big thank you to Tom Doughty, Chef Ted Anderson, Chef Rob Belcham, and the rest of the gang at Campagnolo/Campagnolo Roma/Fat Dragon.

Our trip down Stargate Atlantis memory lane continues with…

THIS MORTAL COIL (410)

I can’t recall a time I was more frustrating writing (and rewriting and re-rewriting) a script than this one.  On the surface, it seems like a straightforward enough story: our characters get into trouble but it turns out they’re not our characters, however they enlist the help of our characters who end up getting killed at episode’s end.  Except, it turns out, they’re not our characters.  It was one of those episodes that required a lot of explaining – which is something I’m averse to doing because I feel it slows things down.  I prefer to assume the audience is smart enough to piece it together.  According to Paul, however, I tend to assume way too much and, as a result, I kept receiving notes to “explain this” and “clarify that”.  The challenge, of course, was not in explaining and clarifying but in doing so in a way that was concise and entertaining.  How successful I was in the end is questionable since I tend to be my own worst critic and the frustration I experienced working on this script lingers.  Still, the episode has its highlights, among them some very nice character moments.

It was great having Torri return as Weir(ish) – although this, sadly, would mark her final appearance on the show.  Even though the assumption is that Elizabeth was killed by Oberoth (this was done to extinguish any hope for a successful rescue op since it would have been something that would have weighed on Sheppard moving forward), I never imagined she was actually dead.  In my mind, Oberoth respected Elizabeth too much – and found her far too useful – to simply kill her. The plan was to have the team uncover the real Elizabeth, in stasis somewhere, in a future episode – something we never got the chance to do.

One of my favorite moments comes at the end of the episode – or, more accurately, after the episode has ended.  McKay finally succeeds in tracking every Aurora class replicator vessel in the galaxy.  As he and Sheppard look on, we see the ships flash up on the star map.  BEEP-BEEP-BEEP-BEEP-BEEP-BEEP.  Six in all.  ”That’s not so bad,”says McKay.  ”I guess the wraith have really taken a toll.”  Suddenly, another eight BEEPS and the corresponding ships appear onscreen. Then, another fifteen leaves McKay and Sheppard staring, aghast.  I was very specific that I wanted to fade out on an ominous sting, wait a beat, and then hear another eleven BEEPS punctuated by Rodney’s “Oh, crap.”

While Teal’c ending up at a reading of the Vagina Monologues was my favorite SG-1 ending, this was my favorite Atlantis ending.

Read Full Post »

August 25, 2012: The Perfect Meal! Cos & Effect Kicks Off!

What’s cookin’?

Last night, I had THE perfect meal.  And, by “perfect”, I mean perfect for me.  And no wonder given that my dinner was planned and prepared by Chef Rob Belcham.  No one knows my culinary likes and dislikes, leanings and particulars better than Rob and the gang from Campagnolo/Campagnolo Roma/Fat Dragon.

Fellow owner Tom Doughty texted me earlier this week to let me know they had some very special pork in and would I be interested in having dinner at Campagnolo?  Would I!

Chef Rob Belcham, the master of ceremonies on this night.

So, last night, Akemi and I showed up at Campagnolo where we were greeted by Chef Belcham who had that glint in his eye, the look of someone who was about to spring a surprise.  As it turned out, several them over the course of our meal.  No menus for us on this night.  But I wasn’t worried.  We were in infinitely capable hands.

First up, the corn soup.  Not just any corn soup.  This is THE corn soup, the corn soup they used to serve at Refuel, available only during peak season.  The corn is pressed through a cheesecloth, several times to achieve its thick, rich consistency.  My favorite soup of all time.

It was served chilled with melon and a touch of chili.  I told Akemi that, back in the day, when it was on the menu at the old location, I used to have two bowls – one to start the meal and one to end it.  It’s that good.

The salad included sungolds from Stoney Paradise, the sweetest tomatoes you’ll ever eat (contrasted with the slightly tarter heirloom), along with some fresh basil, mozzarella, and a little something from the charcuterie. 

We were presented with the piece de resistance, the star of the evening: The Pork Belly Rack

Bar Director Giovanni Giardino heard I was a fan of the Moscow Mule and asked me if I wanted to try his take on the classic.

Instead of ginger beer, he uses a ginger syrup that packs quite the wicked throat punch.  

It is accompanied by the same concentrated syrup with overproof.  One single drop will blow away your tastebuds.

The rack was served with polenta, peas, radish…it was unbelievable.  The meat was tasty and melt-in-your-mouth tender, the skin crisp and delicious.  Unforgettable.  

Then, it was time for dessert and I was presented with…

Another serving of corn soup, this one topped with peaches and dill.  Just like old times!

For Akemi, a fabulous butterscotch trifle.

What a great dinner.  Thoroughly satisfied, we – WAIT!  THERE’S MORE!  Onto our second round of desserts -

Akemi loves cheesecake and this mascarpone cheesecake with fresh cherries didn’t disappoint.  Even I was a fan!

“Didn’t think we would let you go without some chocolate, did you?”asked Chef Belcham.  Corn soup, sungold tomatoes, crispy pork, more corn soup, AND a chocolate dessert!  Valhrona Chocolate Pudding with Nutella cream and crushed hazelnuts.  Best Dessert Ever!

I don’t eat out as much as I used to but the dinner made me wistful for the good old days at Fuel/Refuel – and, quite frankly, eager to come back to Campagnolo to sample the incredible-looking pastas and pizzas that passed our table over the course of the evening.

The meal was nothing short of perfection.  A huge thanks to Rob, Tom, and the rest of the gang!

CAMPAGNOLO RESTAURANT

CAMPAGNOLO ROMA

FAT DRAGON BAR-B-Q

Hey, Cos & Effect (Cos & Effect) kicked off on Friday and continues through the weekend.  Akemi and I dropped by this afternoon and I snapped a few pics – which I’ll be posting as part of tomorrow’s blog entry.  Here’s a sneak peek:

Captain Jack says: “A con? I love cons. Drinks all around!”

Carl’s faves: The ladies of Final Fantasy

Read Full Post »

July 24, 2012: Dessert and a sandwich and dessert. And more desserts. And Alexander and Sarah!

Cookies for everyone! Compliments of Akemi.

Seriously.  How can anyone say no to freshly baked cookies, even if it means having them for breakfast?  In retrospect, they were the perfect food for what lay ahead, full of the carbohydrate and sugar energy I would need to get me through a grueling day of eating.

Akemi and I met up with our foodie friend, Simon, aka JYS, for a little culinary excursion, Vancouver-style.  The plan was to check out the new pasta place in Gastown, but it was closed, so we opted for my favorite sandwich place in town: Meat & Bread.  And, as usual, whenever I go, I always get…

The Porchetta

One of the many great things about this sandwich (beside the juicy pork, salsa verde, and fresh bun) are the bits of crisp crackling.  I know, I know.  I’m sure the daily sandwiches are equally fantastic – but I go with what I know.

The Day’s Special – beef.  Don’t recall the specifics but it looked delicious.  

Simon throws caution to the wind and goes for it.

We strolled over to Vancouver’s best dessert shop, Cadeaux Bakery, for lunch – only to discovery it was closed as well.  So we hopped into my cover and motored on over to Cordova Street for a sweet one-two (three, four) punch.

We started at Giovanne Cafe (better known as G) for three terrific desserts:

The Chocolate Zeppolle.  It’s about the size of a softball.  My favorite.

The cream in this one is very subtle but its buttery finish contrasts nicely with the sweet, fine sugar exterior.

The Hedgehog – Simon’s favorite.  Peanut butter, chocolate, and hazelnuts.

And, since we were right next door, we decided to check out the best gelato place in Vancouver: Bella Gelateria.

He’s gonna eat that.

I don’t mind admitting that, by this point, I was stuffed.  So instead of going with a particulate-heavy selection, I decided to go with a light palate-cleanser…

A little palate cleanser: vanilla gelato.

Well, I had planned to launch into that rant today but an early morning skype session with my old friends, Alexander and Sarah, temporarily defused much of the simmering anger.  I’m sure it’ll only be a matter of time before it comes to a boil though so don’t mope, the rant has been postponed, not cancelled.  Anyway, it was great to catch up with Ruemy and Sarah.  She, sweet and upbeat; he, bitter and blase. They’re the romantic equivalent of the Reese’s Peanut Butter Cup. Akemi and I were hoping to go down to Berlin for the wedding and maybe do a little Madrid and Paris (actually, a lot of Madrid and a little Paris) but it seems unlikely we’ll be able to swing it.  Still, I’m hopeful we can make it work later this year.  And, hopefully, Alex and Sarah will be able to reschedule their wedding accordingly.

A reminder to cast your ballot (and leave a comment for a chance to win a signed script) in our Greatest Season-Ending Cliffhanger in Stargate History poll.  Vote!

Read Full Post »